So, I've got a few Ithaca Model 37s now, the newest being a Model 87 and the oldest a 1956 vintage 16ga. All have been bought as used guns. I'm rather ignorant when it comes to these guns and am learning quite a bit...

My first 16ga was a 1952 vintage gun that I wound up selling. It was absolutely too beautiful and pristine, and did not belong in my hands with the intentions I have so it was sold. Before I sold it, I took it most of the way apart and cleaned it up as best as could be done. I did not remove the trigger group from the stock and did not disassemble the trigger group. I also did not disassemble the bolt or carrier nor remove the magazine tube from the receiver. Everything else came off/out and was cleaned.

That gun sold, I dove into my little 20ga M37. On this one I have taken the stock off the trigger group and disassembled that as well. It appears the parts in the bolt and carrier are held in by very small splined pins, I for one don't really want to get into punching those out and trying to get them back in, so those two "sub groups" are not being disassembled rather just soaked on Hoppe's No. 9, scrubbed and blown off.

It does not seem that these guns are rocket-science. I seem to be able to get them apart, cleaned and back together again without having any "extra" parts left over after reassembly and they're still working just fine. I've moved on to the 16ga now and am doing the same thing. One thing is for sure, I do not believe these guns have ever been disassembled and cleaned like this; they were absolutely FILTHY inside.

Anybody else run into similar filth, have any horror stories or tips, tricks or pointers when it comes when it comes to their M37s?

That filth is actually pretty normal. When you fire off a round, lit powder get into EVERYTHING. Plus, when you are walking around in tall grass, all kinds of stuff can get rubbed off the grass and into the receiver. This is not as big a problem in a 37 as it is with some other models (I once pulled out old grass from behind the bolt of a model 12 winchester) But shooting is a dirty business and stripping your gun for a thorough cleaning is not a bad thing. One tip if you decide to remove the extractors and other small parts, remove one section at a time clean it and re-install. I suggest you use two punches. Use one to align all the parts together and the other to drive the pin back in. Starrett makes the best punches and their sets seems to fit a wide range of pin sizes more precisely.

My one 12 ga. had leaves in it and had a sandy action. Chances are it was a duck gun. Not so much powder fouling, just regular dirt that the action picks up. I have a ultrasonic cleaner and all the parts get a bath, you would be surprised at how much dirt come's off of a clean part. Drop a "clean" part in the liquid and watch the cloud of dirt form around it.

ravengunsmith wrote:One tip if you decide to remove the extractors and other small parts, remove one section at a time clean it and re-install. I suggest you use two punches. Use one to align all the parts together and the other to drive the pin back in. Starrett makes the best punches and their sets seems to fit a wide range of pin sizes more precisely.

Thank you for the advise, but I'm really not too interested in punching out any of those splined pins. I think them taken down as far as they are is fine for me.

Jaguarxk120 wrote:My one 12 ga. had leaves in it and had a sandy action. Chances are it was a duck gun. Not so much powder fouling, just regular dirt that the action picks up. I have a ultrasonic cleaner and all the parts get a bath, you would be surprised at how much dirt come's off of a clean part. Drop a "clean" part in the liquid and watch the cloud of dirt form around it.

Ultrasonic cleaners are the best. I am sure you all know this, but as a reminder, never put flammables in an ultrasonic cleaner. Best thing to use, is warm/hot water and some simple green. Just make sure you dry everything extremely well and oil immediately.

ch139 wrote:

ravengunsmith wrote:One tip if you decide to remove the extractors and other small parts, remove one section at a time clean it and re-install. I suggest you use two punches. Use one to align all the parts together and the other to drive the pin back in. Starrett makes the best punches and their sets seems to fit a wide range of pin sizes more precisely.

Thank you for the advise, but I'm really not too interested in punching out any of those splined pins. I think them taken down as far as they are is fine for me.

If you aren't confident about taking them down, then it is probably best you don't. You can get 99% of the crud out without removing them and those springs can travel an awful long way if you aren't careful.

The two punch method also works very nicely on the trigger group too. Makes it alot easier to get the hammer and trigger parts all lined up.

There's what I've got going on... thinking about sending it out right now to be Parkerized (that has been the plan all along, just hadn't intended to do it so soon - more of a "winter project").