Aha - tricks of the trade to get the weight down I see.

As for spray brake cleaner, I have heard that the stuff is quite toxic. Not sure I would want it around.

RipVanWinkle wrote:

ch139 wrote:Not sure about the stock, but will check. I do know it was cut down... way down.

Do you use acetone to degrease everything? I was thinking brake cleaner.

I used spray brake cleaner on my test pieces and it worked fine, but I had a gallon of acetone and it worked just as well; plus it was a lot cheaper and I could just pour it in jars, like in the picture, to soak stuff. Alcohol and dishwashing detergent work too. If in doubt, I would wash in detergent and hot water, rinse, and wipe down with a clean, acetone soaked rag. Maybe I overdid it, but I was spooked by everything I'd read about the importance of degreasing.

Here's a picture showing the "hollow" butt stock:



You can see it's a lot larger opening than the one in that video.

Nothing like that at all... just the standard little tiny hole for the bolt. Makes me wonder if they had problems with cracking stocks early on... the wrist area is very thin.

Fantastic job, I have seen several examples in far worse condition.

I picked up a 1926 sporting Mauser at a show whose barrel looked like a sewer pipe. After several thorough cleanings, it was returned to its glory, and loved re building it.

Got the "short box" back from Steve Rose at Rose Action Sports in Pembroke, KY today; very excited and it looks awesome. This is the fourth barrel I've sent to him to be cut-down and its perfect like the other three. Also, from the day I ship it from Oregon to Kentucky its only 10-days before its back on my doorstep; OUTSTANDING service and work. If y'all need any barrels cut, Steve is the guy to call.

Anyway, the business end of what is becoming quite a social shotgun.



The receiver, barrel and East Taylor LLC bayonet mount/heatshield

Naval Jelly is great stuff and is working well at taking all the old rust, corrosion and buling off of everything. Seems like the smaller the parts get the longer they are taking to clean up. Also, in working on the receiver it looks like the pitting is worse than I thought; I'm not getting a clean surface (free of pitting) and really starting to think having it all Parkerized is a better option than me trying to blue it.

For now, more slime!

Great job so far ch139 !!

This thing has kinda has kinda been sidelined for a few months... wanting to get back into it... now kinda wanting to keep the bayonet lug/heat-shield off the project and keep it as a "Riot Gun" as the barrel is already cut down to 20-inches. Still thinking bluing is not going to work as there is some pitting and "going green" (gray Parkerizing with a green tint to is to "show some age").

Thoughts?

(gray Parkerizing with a green tint to is to "show some age").

I like that idea!

These are the guys that are offering the service.

http://craftguard.com

Love the guy that does my barrel cutting and he gave Craftguard a thumbs up; said he has worked with them in the past and they do great work.

If you follow the Parkerizing link then can see the gray/green color. Its only supposed to be a hint of green (starting to sound like I'm painting my living room here), but a "hint" is all I'm really after. the gun is 72-years old and old Parkerizing would have taken on a tint over all those years from different chemicals being used to clean, lube and protect the gun. I don't have years to wait and am not all that patient to start with, so getting it Parkerized with a "hint" of green in there is appealing.

Wood first though. Ordered a new replacement stock that should be here soon, need to take the wood to my "wood guy" get it fitted just right then have him refinish the stock and forend together; don't want him to be fitting wood with newly finished metal parts. Also need to figure out the buttplate situation.

I too like the "green tint" look of the parkerizing...can't wait to see the results !